Dressing for rain on the water

Weather on the water, not in town

Juneau ranks among the wettest state capitals in the United States, and a dry summer day there is a bonus rather than the plan. Summer highs mostly land in the mid-50s to low 60s °F, about 13–17 °C, and out on the channel it feels cooler still. The boats leave from Auke Bay, about 12 miles (19 km) north of downtown, and spend their time in open water such as Stephens Passage and Lynn Canal, where a breeze is normal even when the harbor looks glassy.

Add the boat's own speed between sightings and the air across the deck feels several degrees colder than the number on your phone. Expect to sail in rain. Alaska Tales says its trips go rain or shine, and Dolphin's listing tells guests to plan for rain and for cooler air on the water. When an operator does call off a trip for weather, Harv & Marv's offers another time or a full refund. If you are still choosing a month, when the whales are in sets out the wetter and drier stretches of the season.

Layers for a warm cabin and a cold rail

The main tours all use boats with a cabin to retreat to, and most listings describe it as heated. That means you will swap warm air for wind several times an hour, every time a whale surfaces. Several thin layers you can open and close beat one thick coat.

• Base. A long-sleeved top in merino wool or a synthetic fabric. Cotton soaks up drizzle and sweat, then stays cold;
• Warm middle. A fleece or a light down jacket. On a grey, windy morning, a thin fleece under a down vest works well;
• Waterproof shell. A rain jacket with a hood that cinches tight, long enough to cover your hips. Water-resistant fabric gives up after an hour of steady drizzle;
• Legs. Quick-drying trousers, with waterproof over-pants on a wet day. Jeans turn heavy and cold once the rain blows sideways.

Pack the shell even when the morning starts bright. Weather in the channels can turn inside an hour, and spray reaches the bow when the boat runs at speed.

Why a poncho is the wrong idea on deck

Cheap plastic ponchos are easy to find in port, and they do fine for a stroll downtown. On a moving boat they flap, ride up over your face and block the person behind you at the rail. A fitted jacket with a hood stays put and leaves both hands free for the railing or a camera. If a poncho is all you brought, wear it for the walk to the bus and take it off before you step out on deck.

Shoes for wet decks and gravel paths

Several listings ask guests to wear comfortable, non-slip shoes, and the reason is clear once you board. Wet decks get slippery, and people move quickly from side to side when a whale comes up. Dolphin adds a warning about its gangway, which tilts sharply when the tide is out. Trainers with a grippy rubber sole will do, and waterproof hiking shoes are better on a rainy day. Leave sandals and smooth-soled shoes on the ship.

The glacier combos add a walk on land. Alaska Tales' whale and glacier trip, from ~$230, gives you 45 minutes at Mendenhall Glacier before the boat, on paths that are usually damp. Dolphin's longer glacier, waterfall and whale tour at ~$199 allows 2 h 15 min ashore, enough for the 2-mile (3.2 km) round trip on gravel to Nugget Falls, but it fills 5–5.5 hours and its listing says it does not suit anyone with back problems. You wear the same shoes for both halves of the day, so pick ones that handle a gravel trail and a wet deck. Whales and the glacier in one go compares the combos.

Warm head, usable hands

A warm hat that stays on in wind does more for comfort than an extra sweater, and a thin beanie fits neatly under a hood. Light gloves that work with a touch screen keep your fingers usable on deck. On a cold, wet day a pair of waterproof gloves on top helps more than you might expect in summer.

On a clear day the glare off the water is strong. Sunglasses, polarized if you own them, cut the shine and make a blow or a dark back easier to pick out. Long June and July days add up on an open deck, so a little sunscreen is no bad idea either.

What goes in the day bag

Bring a small backpack and nothing larger. Dolphin and Alaska Tales both rule out luggage and large bags, and cabin space is tight on every boat. Inside the pack, a dry bag or a zip-top plastic bag keeps your phone and a spare battery dry between sightings, and a soft cloth for wiping the screen earns its place. On JWT's trip food is up to you, so a snack goes in the same bag.

Binoculars let you see what the naturalist is pointing at long before it comes close. Dolphin hands them out, and so do the Lighthouse boats. On the other trips, bring a compact pair from home. Photographing whales covers keeping a camera dry in rain and spray.

Dressing for a port day or a longer stay

Cruise passengers face one extra wait in the weather. Most tours meet outdoors near the Mount Roberts Tramway, and reviewers of Dolphin's tour say its meeting spot offers nowhere to shelter from rain. One guest on the Alaska Tales glacier combo was left standing in the rain while the group gathered. Leave the ship already dressed for the boat, since the boat is the next stop after a bus ride of about 25 minutes to Auke Bay. Whale watching on a port day covers the meeting points and timing.

If you are staying in Juneau, you can watch the forecast and pick a drier morning, provided your tour allows free cancellation. Alaska Tales, JWT, Dolphin and Juneau Tours & Whale Watch all do, up to 24 hours ahead. Harv & Marv's and the Lighthouse tour are non-refundable on Viator, so you go in whatever falls from the sky. Anyone prone to queasiness should dress to stay outside in fresh air rather than in a warm, stuffy cabin, and will I get seasick? explains why that helps. Small boat or big boat? compares how much cabin each boat gives you on a wet day.