Small boat or big boat?

Three sizes of boat leave Auke Bay

Every tour we compare takes a bus out to Auke Bay, some 12 miles (19 km) from downtown, and puts you on one of three kinds of boat. The largest class takes up to 49 guests. Alaska Tales' wildlife cruise, from ~$177, uses a purpose-built whale boat with several viewing decks. Harv & Marv's three-hour cruise, from ~$159, goes out on a double-decker with enclosed cabins. The whale and lighthouse combo at ~$199 comes from Harv & Marv's sister company, and the two share boats. Viator caps all of them at 49 travelers, along with the Alaska Tales glacier combo.

At the small end sits Juneau Whale Tours (JWT), from ~$209, with a 40-foot (12 m) catamaran for 20 guests at most. Dolphin Jet Boat Tours, the cheapest at ~$154, runs small, enclosed jet boats. Viator lists up to 100 travelers for one of its departures, which points to several boats heading out together. Juneau Tours & Whale Watch falls in between. Its Ultimate Juneau Whale Watch at ~$156 uses either a 24-seat jet boat or a 49-seat catamaran, and the listing does not say which one you get. Ask if the size settles it for you, and budget for the tip, which its price leaves out.

What a smaller boat changes

Rail space comes first. When a humpback surfaces off one side, everybody moves toward it. With 20 people on a walk-around deck there is room for the whole group, and JWT reviewers return again and again to the point that nobody had to elbow anyone for a view. A full 49-seat boat has more deck in total, spread across at least two levels, yet more people want the same few yards of railing when the whale shows up on the far side. Crossing a small deck takes a few steps. On a double-decker it can mean a staircase and a crowd at the top.

A smaller group also tends to be quieter. The naturalist is easier to hear, and on a still day you may catch the sound of a blow before you spot it. Jet boats add speed to the mix, which shortens the run out to the whales and leaves more of the trip for watching. Dolphin's listing describes its boats as small and climate-controlled with an enclosed cabin, so ask how much open deck you get if you want to stand outside the whole time. Photographers who want a clear line at the rail lean toward the small catamaran, and our photo guide explains why.

What a bigger boat gives back

Comfort, mostly. Alaska Tales lists a heated cabin with toilets on board, and Harv & Marv's double-decker has enclosed cabins plus two restrooms. The Lighthouse boats list heated cabins and two bathrooms, plus binoculars to borrow. On a wet morning you can sit at a window with a coffee and step outside only when the crew calls a sighting. That matters in Juneau, where rain is the usual forecast, and dressing for rain on the water covers the layers either way.

Size alone does not decide the facilities. JWT's catamaran is small, yet it still offers a heated cabin with a restroom. Dolphin runs enclosed, heated jet boats, but its listing does not mention a toilet, so ask before a three-hour outing if that matters. Stability is the other question people raise. Wider hulls and catamarans tend to roll less than narrow boats, though wind against tide can chop up any channel, and our seasickness guide goes through where to sit and what to take.

The 100-yard rule covers every hull

No boat in Alaska may approach a humpback closer than 100 yards (91 m), whatever its size. A small boat is not allowed closer than a big one. Picking JWT or Dolphin gives you no legal advantage in distance. Close passes still happen on all of them, because whales sometimes swim up to a boat that has stopped. That is luck, and it favors no particular hull.

The height of your viewpoint does differ. An upper deck on a double-decker puts you well above the water, which helps you pick out distant blows and see a whale's back under the surface on a calm day. A low catamaran deck puts you closer to eye level with a fluke. Neither is better for spotting, and the whales you might meet look different from each angle.

The catch on the small boats

Any JWT departure with 5 or fewer guests is called off, and you choose between a new date and your money back. For someone with one free afternoon in port, a cancellation means hunting for another trip at short notice. One reviewer also found the seats on one of its boats mounted high off the deck. Older guests with stiff knees may struggle to get up onto them. Food is your job on JWT, since the price covers bottled water only.

Dolphin's catches sit on land. Its boarding ramp gets steep at low tide, and the listing rules the tour out for anyone with back problems or limited mobility. Reviewers also found the meeting point under the tram cables confusing, with nowhere to shelter from the rain while the group gathers. The big boats have their own drawbacks, mostly waiting. One Alaska Tales reviewer lost time on the water when the shuttle stopped for other guests, and another sat through a 20-minute wait for latecomers.

Boat size side by side

Figures come from the listings. Where a listing gives no time on the water, we say so rather than guess.

Who should pick which

• You want space at the rail. JWT. Accept the higher price along with the small chance of a low-numbers cancellation;
• You run cold or the forecast says rain. A 49-seat boat with heated cabins. Alaska Tales and Harv & Marv's both fit;
• You want the most time watching. Harv & Marv's, which spends three hours afloat and collects you from your dock;
• Budget comes first. Dolphin at ~$154, if nobody in the group has a bad back; what a whale tour costs compares all nine prices;
• You travel with older relatives. A big boat with indoor seating, not JWT's high seats; our guide for older travelers and families has the details;
• Your ship leaves early. Check the timing before the boat size, using our port-day guide.